Gastronomic Recommendations

A taco that looks like lunch

By Natalia de la Rosa - 2021-05-25T16:39:05Z
The universe of tacos is infinite if we take into account what constitutes a taco in itself. It is said that a taco is composed, in its most basic and elemental expression, of a tortilla, the filling that will sit at its center, and the sauce that crowns the whole. The tortilla is that corn sun that illuminates and encompasses and traverses and envelops in a whole the Mexican identity or, rather, what the Nation-State has hammered into us under the umbrella of “the Mexican.” Alejandro Escalante describes these elements in La Tacopedia as “the holy trinity of Mexico.”  There are days when I wake up thinking about tacos due to my whimsical craving nature, and in recent months, there are also days when I talk about tacos all day long. Sometimes I impose a self-examination exercise, and for the case, I would like to assume that every Mexican has questioned the same: what is my favorite taco?  Today I woke up thinking about the taco placero: that simple taco that arises from the mere spontaneity of putting together this and that which has been brought from the market into a taco, as a kind of snack or a prelude to a feast. According to the Encyclopedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronomy, the taco placero is also known as taco de plaza and is typical of the center of the country. In Tlaxcala, it can also be accompanied by requesón and quelites such as pápalo, pipicha, or cilantro.  It is said or considered that the taco placero can contain: 1) tortilla, 2) chicharrón, 3) guacamole or avocado, 4) sauce, 5) fresh cheese, 6) nopales. A taco that includes these six elements will be worthy of respect; however, the taco placero can include a random combination of them such as: 1, 2, 4 or 1, 3, 4, 5 or 1, 3, 4, 6 or even 1, 2, 5, 3. The tortilla, chicharrón, and sauce constitute a minimalist taco placero, but not simplistic. Each of these elements carries on its back centuries of food culture that has been forged in Mexican territory through comal, copper pot, and molcajete.  In the taco placero, there is also intertwined the action of going out to buy ingredients and “having a taco” on the way. In this sense, the taco placero is also a taco that is eaten on the sly, a taco that is a reward, comfort, and hunger killer for those who carry the basket or bag from the market. My dad doesn’t forgive the taco placero. It is known in my family - especially by my mother - that before the table is set and the dishes are ready for the barbecue, my holy father already has half a hit because he was the one in charge of going to the market.  The evidence is clear: the chicharrón is pinched, the avocado is half cut, and, as if by magic, the hunger that drives many of my father's actions has been tamed and his furious urgency to eat has disappeared. The taco placero is also an appetizer. Once all the ingredients are laid out on the table, you have to move quickly, elbow to elbow among the diners, to assemble the taco to personal taste. The taco placero is public and at the same time homemade. The taco placero is universal and also particular, as each person builds it in their own way and custom. The taco placero is chairo, not at all fifí; it is itinerant, it is craving, it is economic resistance in the domestic sphere. Finally, the taco placero has no gender; that is, it is not associated with the masculine character of the taquero or the feminine action of cooking a stew. Today my favorite taco is the taco placero because it reminds me of the days visiting the tianguis with my parents. The taco placero has not been touched by time and, although we have changed, the taco placero remains crunchy, spicy, fresh, always jovial, and ready for family gatherings. The taco placero is a taco that seems like lunch, that is food, that is craving. Today, what is your favorite taco? Guacamole Sauce Recipe 1 avocado 1 sprig of cilantro ¼ onion 3 tomatillos 3 serrano chiles 1 clove of garlic the juice of 1 lime 2 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper to taste You need to blend the avocado, cilantro, onion, tomatillos, serrano chiles, garlic clove, and lime juice. Blend until you achieve the desired consistency. Add the olive oil and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.