The Year of Birria

Half of the year has passed, and it seems that comfort food –so necessary for nurturing the soul when things aren't going well– has come to stay. In 2020, we saw an abundance of fried chicken, Thai food, Japanese sandwiches, cookies of all colors and flavors, smash burgers, the ubiquitous Turín bunnies, among other indulgent bites. Among them is a 100% Mexican dish that, interestingly, started making a lot of noise a couple of years ago in the United States before becoming popular south of the Rio Bravo: birria. Generally associated with the traditional food of Jalisco, it is in the municipality of Cocula where birria recipes have been preserved, prepared since the 17th century in the western region. It is said that with the Spanish came a good cargo of goat livestock, a food not well regarded by the aristocracy and conquerors due to its strong smell and intense meaty flavor. It was, of course, food meant for the indigenous peoples. However, as audacious cooks as always demonstrated by the inhabitants of our territory –especially their women– managed to wrap this meat with spices that were already used in the region: bay leaf, clove, cinnamon, oregano, cumin, roasted chiles… and then slowly bake it underground. The result: a dish of tender, aromatic meat, somewhat spicy, with a hearty broth, beautiful to eat with a spoon and accompanied by tortillas.It is in Guadalajara where birria solidifies its popularity among locals and visitors. Wonderful representatives can be found at Mercado Alcalde –ask for Don David's birria–; La Victoria in the mythical Santa Tere neighborhood; Las Nueve Esquinas, a favorite among tourists in the Centro; El Chololo, heading towards Chapala; Chino's birria, where one can eat the traditional goat version, but also beef; the gordito taco at birriería Aceves, inside the Mercado de Abastos; and a long etcetera. But birria is not found exclusively in Guadalajara; Tijuana also has a great tradition of birria taco carts with their consomé, like those found at the edges of Mercado Hidalgo.For no more than three years, birria has exploded in the United States, specifically in Los Angeles, Chicago, and New York. In the renowned Eater guide of New York alone, there is a list of 19 must-visit places to try birria in the Big Apple. And, of course, Instagram did its job: millions of users have salivated over the dish and one of its derivatives: quesabirria, a powerful quesadilla made with a large tortilla filled with beef birria, ready to be dipped in a thick broth with lime, chopped onions, and cilantro.Starting from the birriamen phenomenon –ramen noodles in birria broth, created by chef Toño De Livier–, its constant presence on Instagram, and the rise of dark kitchens, birria is making its way in Mexico City. The rest of 2021 will see its continued presence, and hopefully, other versions will take over more corners of the capital. My advice would be to try making it at home. Not far from here, you will find a good beef birria recipe, perfect to perfect it with our personal touch and show it off as if we had been cooking it for years. Let’s get to work.