Training in seven steps to drink mezcal

Do you want to refine your mezcal tasting skills? Here’s how to start your learning journey with this national icon.Master mezcal producers say that mezcal treats you as you treat it, so the suggestion is to follow the wise and traditional saying: drink it with kisses.This idea not only sounds beautiful but also carries a profound message related to the time this beverage has spent in our history, over 500 years, and the time it takes for an agave to grow, which can be from 8 to 20 years, before going through cutting, cooking, fermentation, and distillation.So the idea is very clear: we must let the so-called plant of a thousand wonders, from which there are more than 40 varieties for making spirits, express itself.Returning to the topic of how to approach this distillate victoriously for the first time, I asked Guillermo Escárcega, creator of the brand Aguas Mansas, a mezcal that originated in Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca, from the Sernas family, and here are the tips he shared:The best start is to pay attention to the origin of the product, that is, knowing where it comes from, who produces it, and how. In the case of the Mezcal Denomination of Origin, there are nine states that have their approval: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Michoacán, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Durango, Tamaulipas, and Puebla.The alcohol content should be 45 degrees, and there’s no need to fear it, as this characteristic will help you recognize the aromas and flavors of the plant more easily. If you go below that alcohol content, you would be tasting a diluted drink (in water).Explore the varieties that can be used to make mezcal; remember that each state has its endemic or regional plants. For example, the Salmiana variety comes from San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato, and Zacatecas; the Cupreata variety reproduces excellently in Guerrero and Michoacán. Speaking of Oaxaca, it is the state with the most biodiversity for making mezcals, with options ranging from Cuishe, Arroqueño, to Tobalá; in addition to the most common variety found in the country, Espadín.To taste it, look for a wide-mouth container, it can be a jícara or a small candle holder, and serve one to one and a half ounces. Take advantage of the boom of mezcal producers using ceramics thanks to the wonderful artisans making them all over the country.Now let’s get to the action. If you really want to know everything that a mezcal offers in aromas and flavors, go for the blancos; this way you will understand what the land contributed, whether it’s more floral, herbal, mineral, or earthy. As you read, mezcal is all this and more.Before moving on to the palate level, do a preparation exercise: wet your index finger with a bit of mezcal and spread it on the back of your other hand, shake that hand, and immediately smell where you placed the mezcal. What should happen is that the aroma of cooked agave primarily explodes; if that’s not the case and you find smells of burnt tire or plastic or too smoky, something isn’t right with the quality of your mezcal, as it has a defect that occurred at some point in the production process. This exercise helps prepare your sensory system for that first sip, which you should use to rinse your mouth and slowly swallow the liquid. The alcohol will dominate a bit, but by the second sip, you will start to find the olfactory references that a mezcal, due to its origin and variety, can provide.Finally, it is essential that for every alcoholic drink you consume, you hydrate (drink water); this will make a difference. If possible, don’t mix it with other spirits or sugars so your body doesn’t remind you the next day.The topic of orange with worm salt is left to your discretion; it is not a very common practice in mezcal-producing areas. Still, what’s really important is to know that mezcal is perfect as an aperitif, a digestif, and for pairing with many dishes. Here are two examples: Espadín with fish, seafood, and shellfish, and don’t hesitate to serve Tobalá when cooking moles, cochinita, or heavily spiced meats.Remember that mezcal is a cultural product, deeply rooted in the history of Mexico that, like its growth and process, cries out to be drunk with kisses.Research: Wendy Pérez, gastronomic journalist. Photos: Rober Antillón, food photographer.Photo location: Salón Candela.