Abigail Mendoza, the guardian of Oaxacan flavors

Abigail Mendoza Ruiz, one of the most important traditional cooks in Mexico, has become a true institution, as her authentic dishes have helped preserve the ancestral flavors of Oaxaca, while also taking them to different corners of the world. The love story between Abigail and traditional cooking began when she was very young, when her father gifted her a metate and she became obsessed with learning how to make the perfect tortilla. Years later, she learned to cook daily delicacies with the help of her mother; however, she had a more complicated goal in mind: to learn how to cook festive dishes, ceremonial and complex recipes served to hundreds of people on special occasions. Subsequently, with the teachings of Zenaida, her great-aunt, Abigail Mendoza learned the art of making chocolate atole, one of the most complex and sacred Oaxacan drinks. Over the years, her skill and love for the flavors of her ancestors led her to open the restaurant Tlamanalli, which means “God of food,” in 1990. The fame of this cozy place grew after American writer Terry Weeks included some of her recipes in the publication Gourmet. Dozens of journalists and experts began traveling to Teotitlán del Valle to taste the true flavors of Oaxaca. In 1993, journalist Molly O'Neill from The New York Times visited Tlamanalli and named it one of the best restaurants in the world. Abigail Mendoza's talent is undeniable; however, the writings of national and foreign journalists helped spread the importance of her work. Once she cemented her place in the gastronomic scene of our country, the traditional cook joined the project seeking for UNESCO to declare Mexican cuisine as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2005. She embarked on the journey to Paris alongside chef and researcher Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, and although the project did not bear fruit that year, the group of experts achieved their goal in 2010, setting a historical precedent worldwide, as Mexican food now had the same recognition as French cuisine and the Mediterranean diet. None of this would have been possible without the collaboration of Abigail Mendoza. The most impressive thing is that cooking is part of her daily life, making it even more special, as her dishes, which delight the palates of diners, are born from everyday life, from the most cherished recipes of her family and community. The cooking of Abigail Mendoza reminds us that it is not all about reformulating or modernizing the ancestral flavors of our land. Mendoza's dishes become a living relic that Mexican cuisine is much more diverse and complex than we imagine. Thanks to her passion and dedication, the flavors of Oaxaca will remain in the memory of Mexicans and foreigners. This incredible Oaxacan woman surprises us not only with her flavors but also with her achievements. Her life and career have been built on revolutionary acts, but also on the need to preserve the authentic flavors of Oaxacan cuisine. At kiwilimón, we celebrate all women, but especially those who take care of preserving the flavors of our land. This talented Mexican woman has become the ambassador of traditional Mexican cuisine and the guardian of the most authentic flavors of our country. With the help of her metate, she keeps the Zapotec culture alive through her moles, soups, and atoles. Abigail Mendoza is a woman who does not forget her roots for a moment, and despite inheriting her knowledge from her mother and aunt, the magic that governs her kitchen is her own.CreditsMain photoInterior photo