History

Children of the corn: corn dough in Mexican drinks and dishes

By Gretel Morales - 2022-06-09T09:59:03Z
The corn is the foundation of food in Mexico, as it is used to prepare a myriad of dishes and drinks, from tortillas, tamales, gorditas, corundas, tlacoyos, sopes, huaraches, and beverages like tejate, atole, pozol, tejuino, and more. Although we take it for granted today, the reality is that our ancestors undertook the task of domesticating corn more than 10,000 years ago. It was previously thought that corn was domesticated in Guerrero, but a recent genetic study indicates that this process began in Jalisco.Once the domestication process was completed, indigenous peoples turned it into the basis of the milpa and, consequently, the foundation of their diet. However, corn also acquired a new dimension, as indigenous peoples began to venerate it as a god. You can also read: Pre-Hispanic drinks: corn and cacao delightsThe worldview of Mesoamerican peoples was closely linked to the 4 elements and nature, so corn could not be left behind. In Mexica mythology, Cintéotl was the god and protector of corn. For their part, in Maya mythology, humanity was created from corn dough. Therefore, this ingredient was not only essential for the survival of the peoples but also had ritual uses. Although indigenous peoples were forced to abandon their religions with colonization, in our country, corn still has a ritual tint. For example, in the Huasteca region, zacahuil, a huge tamal, is served at celebrations, patron saint festivals, and funerals. The Day of the Dead is another good example, as corn is also an essential part, albeit in a more veiled manner: in the tamales and atole placed on the altar. Now, despite the passage of years, corn remains one of the jewels of Mexican cuisine, as anthropologist Eusebio Dávalos Hurtado once claimed that there were around 700 recipes made with corn in Mexico. You can also read: Pre-Hispanic food recipes that we still enjoyThe evolution of corn doughThe nixtamalization marked a turning point for the culinary tradition of our country, as this process, which involves soaking and cooking corn grains with water and lime, made this ingredient easier to digest and increased the benefits of its consumption, as after nixtamalization, corn becomes richer in iron, calcium, and other nutrients. After nixtamalizing the corn, indigenous women would grind the grains on the metate, giving birth to corn dough, which is primarily used to prepare tortillas, which served as food, packaging, and utensils. On the other hand, thanks to corn dough, dishes such as memelas, tlacoyos, corundas, chileatole, and pozole were also prepared, among others that we still enjoy today. Another staple food for pre-Hispanic cultures was tamales, which were consumed daily, but also on special occasions. According to experts, tamales were filled with beans, quelites, turkey, rabbit, fish, frog, honey, or fruit. However, it should be noted that tamales as we know them today are different from those eaten by our ancestors, as when the colonizers arrived, lard was added to tamales. You can also read: What was eaten in pre-Hispanic Mexico? In addition to tortillas and tamales, there were drinks made with corn dough, which were also part of the native's basic diet. According to French scholar Jacques Soustelle, the Mexica breakfast consisted of atole prepared with corn dough, water, honey, and chili. Subsequently, they would consume tortillas, beans, chili, and other products, but these depended on what the milpa produced. However, atole is not the only drink prepared with corn dough, as Mexico has many drinks made from corn: *Pozol: Researcher Patricia Fournier indicates that pozol is prepared with a mixture of corn dough, water, salt, spices, honey, and cacao. *Tejate: Tejate is made with pinole, a very fine powder made from corn, water, ground mamey pit, and sugar, according to Fournier. *Tascalate: This is an essential Chiapan drink, made with ground corn, cacao, saffron, and water. *Tejuino: The Huichol people prepare tejuino by germinating corn grains, then grinding them on the metate, mixing with water and fermenting. The tejuino consumed in Jalisco is made with corn dough, piloncillo, lime juice, and lemon snow. *Tepache: In pre-Hispanic times, this refreshing drink was prepared with corn and not with pineapple, as it is made today.