History

The afromexican flavors in Guerrero's cuisine

By Gretel Morales - 2022-01-27T12:26:12Z
When we think of Mexican cuisine, we think of chiles en nogada, pozole, tamales, mole, and other delights, but we rarely question the origin or background of these incredible dishes. With the arrival of Spanish colonizers, indigenous gastronomy was forever transformed, as the use of corn flour, pork, and spices was introduced. While it is undeniable that all these new ingredients enriched Mexican cuisine, it is also true that they overshadowed the culinary tradition of the indigenous peoples, but also of the third root: the cuisine of the afromexicans. You can also read: The multiple benefits of consuming tamarindWho are the afromexicans?Afromexicans are the descendants of Mexican slaves who arrived in the territory hundreds of years ago. According to academic Sagrario Cruz Carretero, African slaves arrived in Mexico via ships that mainly docked in Veracruz, Campeche, and Guerrero, although it is worth mentioning that there is also a significant afromexican community in Oaxaca. In the case of Guerrero, most afromexicans reside in the Costa Chica, a region that comprises 15 municipalities. According to academic Francisca Aparicio Prudente, the African slaves mostly came from West Sudan, the Congo, and the Gulf of Guinea.The influence of afromexican cooksDue to their status as slaves, African women were forced to perform domestic roles: wet nurses, maids, and cooks. Regarding their role in the kitchens of New Spain, it is believed that they were responsible for establishing plantain, coconut, and cassava as basic ingredients in various regional cuisines. Another dish of African influence is the famous rice with beans, also known as moros con cristianos. However, afromexican gastronomy is also rich and varied, as researcher Giobanna Buenahora states, “the afro-descendants played with recursion and incorporated plantain as dough for tamales filled with seafood, marinated with coconut milk.” You can also read: Discover all the benefits that hibiscus tea has for youTypical afromexican dishes from GuerreroVarious researchers and academics have undertaken the task of compiling the dishes from the Costa Chica of Guerrero, which have a clear African influence. Below we tell you which are some of these dishes that you cannot miss.White rice with black beansRice with plantainEnchirmoladoMole de robaloFish tamalesMole de tichindaCoconut manzanitasTamales de tichindaRoasted plantainCrab soup with ricePlantain cakesSambumbiaYou can also read: Why do we celebrate the dead and set up an altar for them?Afromexican flavorsThe region of Costa Chica in Guerrero now provides us with ingredients that were also available in Africa, which undoubtedly incorporated into local gastronomy: different types of plantain, sesame, coconut, hibiscus, watermelon, melon, papaya, tamarind, mango, among others. Thanks to the arrival of coconut and tamarind to this territory, we can now enjoy sweets like cocada and the typical tamarind sweets, which undoubtedly have the influence of our third root. On the other hand, in Guerrero, it is also considered that the custom of accompanying certain dishes with boiled rice or plantain is a custom brought by Africans. Another dish that is also popular among afromexicans is moronga, which is mainly prepared in Kenya. Today, another of the most visible afromexican flavors in Mexican cuisine is banana leaves, which are used to prepare all kinds of tamales and in cochinita pibil. Another very evident example is coffee, which originated in Ethiopia. Unfortunately, the passage of time has erased many of the recipes created by afro-descendant women, so it is essential to continue studying their legacy, as this will further enrich the gastronomy of Mexico. If you would like to learn to cook recipes with afromexican flavor, you can download the recipe book titled The seasoning of afromestiza cuisine from Guerrero by Francisca Aparicio Prudente, through the CONACULTA page.