The evolution of the corn tortilla, from ancient times to the present

The tortilla is the cornerstone of Mexican gastronomy, as well as a key piece of our culinary identity and history. To top it off, it is a versatile, nutritious, and economical food, which is why it is essential in all Mexican households, as it is a good source of calcium.If you want to learn more about the history of the tortilla, its origin, and its evolution, at kiwilimón we tell you everything you need to know about the most Mexican food of all. Indeed, while there are about 700 dishes that can be prepared with corn in Mexico, the tortilla is, and always will be, the jewel in the crown. What is the tortilla?The corn tortilla is a small disk made from nixtamalized corn or corn flour, which can be prepared by hand or in industrial machines. Years later, flour tortillas emerged, which are made with wheat flour and lard or butter, and are more popular in the northern part of the country, while corn tortillas are essential in central and southern Mexico. The origin of the tortillaThe tortilla, the pillar of nutrition in our country, is of pre-Hispanic origin and is estimated to have been created around 500 B.C., according to the study titled “Preparation and consumption of tortillas as cultural heritage of San Pedro del Rosal, Mexico.” However, various studies have indicated that the ancient inhabitants of our country domesticated corn and invented the process of nixtamalization between 400 B.C. and 100 A.D.In the General History of the Things of New Spain, written by Bernardino de Sahagún between 1540 and 1585, the Spanish religious explains the great variety of tortillas that existed in the country:The tortillas that the lords ate every day were called totonqui tlaxcalli tlacuelpacholli, which means “white and hot folded tortillas” (...) they also ate tortillas every day called ueitlaxcalli; which means “large tortillas”, these are very white and very thin and wide, and very soft (...) other tortillas called cuahuhtlacualli; they are very white and large, and thick and rough. Another kind of tortilla was called tlaxcalpacholli; they were white, and somewhat brownish, very good to eat. (...) some rolls, not round but long, called tlaxcalmimilli; they are plump and white, and the length of a palm. (…) Another way of tortillas was called tlacepoalli tlaxcalli, which were flaky; they also used many types of tortillas for common people. One kind was called tianquiztlacualli; it means tortilla or tamal sold in the tiánquez. Another called íztac tlaxcalli ética tlaoyo, means very white tortilla that has inside uncooked bean flour (...) They ate certain tortillas made from fresh corn cobs, called elotlaxcalli or xantlaxcalli; another type of tortillas made from new corn cobs, called xilotlaxcalli.It is worth mentioning that corn and tortillas were so important to indigenous peoples that Tlaxcala was known as “the place of tortillas or corn bread”.According to information published by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, in Tenochtitlán there were several markets where tortillas were sold alone or with chili meat, honey, egg, mole, and other accompaniments.You can also read: How to make colored tortillas?The evolution of the tortillaIn addition to being the only edible spoon in the world, the tortilla has become an essential element in Mexican gastronomy because it is used to prepare all kinds of dishes: enchiladas, tacos, chilaquiles, totopos, tostadas, quesadillas, flautas, among many others.Depending on the corn used for its production, we can find white, yellow, blue, and purple tortillas. The revolution of the tortillaDuring ancient times, the metate was used to grind nixtamalized corn, to then form the tortillas and cook them on comales. However, everything changed during colonization, as the mill arrived, and years later, the tortilla machine, an instrument that changed the history of the tortilla and food production in our country.In our country, machines for making tortillas began to be invented and patented since the mid-19th century; however, the tortilla machine that truly changed the food industry did not come to light until 1963 when Fausto Celorio created and patented a machine with a roller system to stamp and transport the tortilla, and it operated on gas, not oil.According to information published by the General Archive of the Nation, before Fausto Celorio, Julián González presented a patent to grind all types of grains in 1859. Years later, Genaro Vergara presented a more modern machine for tortilla production.You can also read: Maizajo, kiwifav of the week