Tribute to Two Greats of Mexican Cuisine

The prestigious Mexican chef Gerardo Vásquez Lugo, from the restaurant Nicos, in CDMX, reinterprets two recipes created by his mother, María Elena Lugo Zemeño, and his grandmother, Catalina, that are easy to prepare at home, with a very special pairing, as a tribute to the cooks who inspired him in his culinary career. For Gerardo Vázquez Lugo, traditional Mexican cuisine is an inheritance cuisine, a community cuisine that is made in teams, in families, where each dish tastes like home. And to pay homage to that premise, the internationally recognized chef celebrates Mother's Day with family, reinterpreting a couple of dishes that evoke the love and memories of our mothers and grandmothers.To carry out this celebration in a unique way, the iconic mother-son duo, Gerardo Vázquez Lugo and Maria Elena Lugo Zermeño, decided to share two iconic recipes from their family, which pair perfectly with Mexican sake Nami, where each one tells a memorable and exceptional story.Memories of GrandmaThe first dish, “Pepián de la abuela Cata”, is a homemade recipe from his grandmother Catalina, originally from Aguascalientes, who lived for a few years in Chihuahua. This simple dish with very basic flavors was prepared during Lent and is characterized by the use of toasted pumpkin seeds with their skins, as the secret lies in the interesting flavor that the latter provides, although it is strained to eliminate its excessive presence. For Gerardo, choosing this dish takes him back to a very special moment, sharing the kitchen with his mother, María Elena. “About 25 years ago, we asked Catalina what she would like to eat for her Saint's Day, and her response was: my own recipe for pepián, accompanied by chicken. That night I remember starting to cook this pepián with Maria Elena until dawn,” recalls Gerardo.A product of its consumption during the 1930s and 1940s when dishes were mostly vegan, this pepián is served with potatoes and vegetables, hence its popularity during Lent, while also taking up the tradition of Mexican cuisine regarding the use of seasonal vegetables.This recipe also features chicken as a special ingredient, and to cook it, Gerardo emphasizes the technique of massaging and sabotaging it with a little garlic, oil, salt, and pepper, to penetrate the meat with the seasoning - a technique that his mother taught him and which he observed again while studying in New Delhi, India. According to Gerardo's culinary principles, each product, each vegetable, has a special treatment so that it is possible to extract the best from each one: some vegetables should be roasted, others fried, and others simply blanched; each vegetable has a different treatment.The Sweet Memories of ElenaThe second recipe is for sweet lovers: “Fresas al Brandy”, a recipe from his mother, María Elena. Although María Elena would describe her desserts as “rustic” or “basic”, Gerardo acknowledges that these recipes have a complexity worthy of recognition, as they come from a time when the greatest pastime was preparing sweets at home, giving a longer life to the fruit of each season, like in this case, strawberries with a very simple addition of liqueur.Originally, this recipe includes a cream based on egg yolks, the preparation of which is usually complex, created by Aunt Lupe, sister of Grandma Catalina, who owned a sophisticated and fine pastry shop, whose recipes have been lovingly preserved by María Elena and which both continue to include on the menu of Nicos. To replicate it at home, the duo chose a simpler recipe, while at the restaurant diners can enjoy it with a special foam that, unlike wine, pairs perfectly with Nami, due to its subtle flavor that allows it to adapt and blend with various spirits, as if it were a good cocktail. Here we present the recipe for strawberries in brandy from Elena: STRAWBERRIES IN BRANDYINGREDIENTS:500 gr of strawberries300 gr of sugar2 oz of brandyPROCEDURE:Clean and disinfect the strawberries by removing their leavesIn a pot, place the clean strawberries, sugar, and a little water and cook over low heat, stirring continuously to avoid lumps, remove from heat until the strawberries are soft.Cool down and then add the ounces of brandy.Enjoy this recipe at home or try it at Nicos this weekend; if you bring your mom, she will receive a complimentary glass of Nami, the first sake made in Mexico!