Ceviche, the marinated, the fresh, the delicious

When you hear the word “ceviche,” you might start to salivate. It is synonymous with excitement, color, and also variety. The warm season demands it on tables, and there’s nothing like enjoying one for an exquisite, quick, and light meal. Its universe begins to be explained by investigating how to write it, whether with “v” or “b.” Regarding the origin of this word, there is a reference from Javier Pulgar Vidal, a Peruvian historian, who claims it comes from the Quechua word siwich, which means “fresh fish” or “tender fish.”Another explanation comes from the Centro Virtual Cervantes, which states that this term has its origins in the Arabic sikbāǧ, a method of preservation using acids like vinegar or citrus juice, and that other less common ways to write it are seviche and sebiche. The truth is that both are used and correct, depending on the place and custom.Mauricio Ávila, a culinary researcher, says that ceviche in Mexico, in his opinion and from a traditional perspective, is a technique and not just a dish, for which it is essential to use a citrus to cure the raw ingredients, which can be fish, shrimp, lobster, conch, clam, among others. And depending on the region, herbs, vegetables, chilies, and raw sauces are added—salt, among others; everything must be fresh. Regarding its origin, he expresses that there are certain myths, and while it has become famous and widely accepted to say that it comes from Peru, he clarifies that it is correct to mention that it exists due to the wealth that arose from the exchange following the voyages of the Nao de China in the 16th century, also known as the Manila Galleon and the Acapulco Galleon.These commercial and cultural maritime routes opened by the Spaniards between America and the Philippines are responsible for a myriad of techniques, ingredients, and knowledge originating from Asia and Africa. This fact is also noted by the Gran Larousse de la Cocina regarding ceviche and its possible origins.In addition to spices, silks, ivory, porcelain, and more, something even more significant arrived: Filipino, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese merchants and sailors, as well as Japanese and African slaves, bringing knowledge and flavors that they incorporated into the lands they arrived at with foods such as rice, green lime, sour orange, limes, bananas, mangoes, and more. He has conducted various interviews in fieldwork around different regions such as Costa Grande, Costa Chica, Quintana Roo, among others, and the constant is that the cooks and fishermen suggest curing the fish for a maximum of 10 minutes and, in the case of crustaceans, for 15 to 20 minutes. He also adds that it should be eaten immediately because promptness and freshness are its rules. In fact, it is prepared in pangas, cayucos, or boats with freshly caught fish because it is part of the sailors' cuisine, and the tostadas are associated with it since this other technique of preserving tortillas before they spoil is common in our country for reasons of utilization and zero waste.Alma Cervantes, a researcher and cook from Sinaloa, explains that ceviche in Sinaloa is a fundamental daily dish: whether you stop at a street cart to eat it, accompanied by a barley drink, or prepare it at home and pair it with a beer, it is food identity.The original Sinaloan ceviche most consumed includes lime, ground black pepper, sometimes garlic, coarse salt, cucumber, red onion, tomato, and fresh shrimp. She states that ceviche in black sauces is also widely used, which contains almost the same ingredients as the previous one—except for tomato—and a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, lime juice, and orange juice, along with chiltepín. Those made with crab, octopus, snook, puffers, and snapper are other common varieties.One that is disappearing and is still seen in the southern part of that state is the dried shrimp ceviche, Alma narrates, as it is related to a preservation technique called barcina, which consists of a ball made with palm leaf sealed with cane thread that wraps the shrimp. This can be preserved there for up to seven years. It used to be sold in local stores, but as the types of commerce have changed, it is becoming less common. Álvaro Maldonado is an artisan who still makes them to preserve this knowledge. For Rodrigo Estrada from Agua y Sal and Yemanyá, ceviche today is an emblematic dish in Latin America that communication and globalization have made known. For him personally, the ceviche style from Acapulco of his childhood is significant—which, according to Eduardo Palazuelos from Mario Canario and Zibu, includes Buffalo sauce and ketchup, tomato, olive oil, pepper, salt, oregano, olives, cilantro, onion, tomato, and lime and can be made with fish, shrimp, octopus, and more—.Ceviche is the new black, Rodrigo expresses, as it is a style of food that captivates the senses with its notes of acidity and spiciness, making you want more, and above all, it is an extremely healthy dish, another trend that makes it attractive today. The creativity of ceviche in contemporary cuisine lies in maximizing the flavor of each fish and understanding that other unusual elements can be incorporated into it. One of his creations is wood-fired cebiche, which includes the catch of the day and shrimp in a sauce of grated chili, red onion, and cilantro accompanied by roasted esquites with a touch of Alderwood smoked salt.This cook has been a traveler and a nomad: after living eight years in San Francisco and being part of the team at La Mar, Gastón Acurio's cevichería, he states that today there are five basic elements to create ceviche: fish, lime and other citrics, salt—fundamental—, onion—added at the end to maintain its texture—and chilies—even incorporating some rarely used in these preparations like chilhuacle or puya—.Tiger's milk is something that differentiates the Peruvian from the Mexican, as well as some elements that make it up, such as the incorporation of fresh corn grains like choclo or cancha, as well as the use of sweet potato, which for him is a link to make it round, creamy, and with sweet notes that add other subtleties. Facts about ceviche:In Mexico, there are different types of ceviche.For example, in Manzanillo, Colima, it is prepared with fish such as sierra, chile, sábalo, robalo, and pargo. Its recipe includes tomato, red onion, cucumber, cilantro, carrot, lime, and Colima salt. Its peculiarity is that the fish is shredded with a fork and becomes very finely ground.The nayarita is similar to the colimota: it includes carrot, onion, tomato, cilantro, cucumber, and lime. The secret of its recipe lies in the small size of the ingredient pieces and letting them marinate well in lime.In Veracruz, from Alvarado and its surroundings, you can find those made with heart of palm (accompanied by a chilpaya chili sauce) to those with conch. Did you know that in Peru, ceviche has its day? It is June 28. This date was established in 2008, thanks to a resolution from the Ministry of Production (Produce), with a precedent in 2004 when it was declared Cultural Heritage of the Nation by the National Institute of Culture (INC).Rodrigo suggests that frozen fish should never be used for ceviches, but always fresh and local, avoiding the consumption of imported tilapias or basa, and respecting fishing bans.Alma advises that when making ceviche, the fish or shrimp should be placed in a little ice with salt and put in the refrigerator for half an hour to an hour, as this improves their consistency.Cover photo: Fernando Gómez Carbajal | Text photos: Mariana Castillo