Ceviche, the marinated, the fresh, the delicious

When you hear the word “ceviche,” you might start to salivate. It is synonymous with excitement, color, and also variety. The warm season demands it on tables, and there’s nothing like enjoying one for a delicious, quick, and light meal. Its universe begins to be explained by investigating how to spell it, whether with “v” or “b.” Regarding the origin of this word, there is a reference from Javier Pulgar Vidal, a Peruvian historian, who claims it comes from the Quechua word siwich, which means “fresh fish” or “tender fish.”Another explanation comes from the Centro Virtual Cervantes, which explains that this term has its origins in the Arabic sikbāǧ, which is a method of preservation using acids like vinegar or citrus juice, and that other less common ways to write it are seviche and sebiche. The truth is that both are used and correct, depending on the place and custom.Mauricio Ávila, a culinary researcher, states that ceviche in Mexico, in his opinion and from a traditional perspective, is a technique and not just a dish, for which it is essential to use a citrus to cure the raw ingredients, which can include fish, shrimp, lobster, conch, clam, among others. And according to the region, herbs, vegetables, chilies, and salsas—raw—, salt, among others, are added; everything must be fresh. Regarding its origin, he expresses that there are certain myths, and while it has become famous and media-friendly to say that it comes from Peru, he clarifies that the correct statement is that it exists thanks to the wealth that arose from the exchange due to the voyages of the Nao de China in the 16th century, also known as the Manila Galleon and the Acapulco Galleon.These maritime commercial and cultural routes that the Spaniards opened between America and the Philippines are responsible for a myriad of techniques, ingredients, and knowledge originating from Asia and Africa. This fact is also pointed out by the Gran Larousse de la Cocina regarding ceviche and its possible beginnings.In addition to spices, silks, ivory, porcelain, and more, something even more significant arrived: Filipino, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese traders and sailors, as well as Japanese and African slaves, bringing knowledge and flavors that they incorporated into the lands they reached with foods such as rice, green lime, sour orange, limes, bananas, mangoes, and more. He has conducted various interviews in fieldwork around different regions such as Costa Grande, Costa Chica, Quintana Roo, among others, and the constant is that cooks and fishermen suggest curing the fish for a maximum of 10 minutes and for shellfish, 15 to 20 minutes. He also adds that it should be eaten immediately, as promptness and freshness are its rules. In fact, it is prepared in pangas, cayucos, or boats with freshly caught fish, as it is part of the sailors' cuisine, and tostadas are associated with it since this other technique of preserving tortillas before they spoil is common in our country due to issues of utilization and zero waste.Alma Cervantes, a researcher and cook from Sinaloa, explains that ceviche in Sinaloa is a fundamental daily dish: whether you stop at a street cart to eat it, accompanied by a barley water, or prepare it at home and pair it with a beer, it is a food identity.The most consumed original Sinaloan ceviche includes lime, ground black pepper, sometimes garlic, coarse salt, cucumber, red onion, tomato, and fresh shrimp. She states that ceviche in black sauces is also very popular, which includes almost the same ingredients as the previous one—except for the tomato—and a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, lime juice, and orange juice, along with chiltepín. Those made with crab, octopus, snook, blowfish, and snapper are other common varieties.One that is disappearing and still seen in the southern part of the state is the dried shrimp ceviche, Alma narrates, as it is related to a preservation technique called barcina, which consists of a ball made with palm leaves sealed with cane thread that wraps the shrimp. This can be preserved there for up to seven years. It used to be sold in village stores, but as the types of businesses have changed, it is becoming increasingly rare. Álvaro Maldonado is an artisan who still makes them to preserve this knowledge. For Rodrigo Estrada from Agua y sal and Yemanyá, ceviche today is an emblematic dish in Latin America that communication and globalization have made known. Personally, he cherishes the Acapulco-style ceviche from his childhood—which, according to Eduardo Palazuelos from Mario Canario and Zibu, includes Buffalo sauce and ketchup, tomato, olive oil, pepper, salt, oregano, olives, cilantro, onion, tomato, and lime, and can be made with fish, shrimp, octopus, and more—.Ceviche is the new black, Rodrigo expresses, as it is a style of food that captures the senses with its notes of acidity and spiciness that make you want more, and above all, it is an extremely healthy dish, another trend that makes it attractive today. The creativity of ceviche in contemporary cuisine lies in maximizing the flavor of each fish and understanding that other unusual elements can be incorporated. One of his creations is wood-fired cebiche that includes the catch of the day and shrimp in a sauce of grated chili, red onion, and cilantro, accompanied by roasted esquites with a touch of Alderwood smoked salt.This chef has been a traveler and nomad: after living eight years in San Francisco and being part of the team at La Mar, Gastón Acurio's cevichería, he affirms that today there are five basic elements to create a ceviche: fish, lime and other citrus fruits, salt—fundamental—, onion—added at the end so that it doesn't lose its texture—and chilies— even incorporating some that are rarely used in these preparations like chilhuacle or puya—.Tiger’s milk is something that differentiates the Peruvian from the Mexican ceviche, as well as some elements that make it up, such as the incorporation of fresh corn kernels from choclo or cancha, as well as the use of sweet potato, which for him is a link to make it round, creamy, and with sweet notes that add other subtleties. Facts about ceviche:In Mexico, there are different types of ceviche.For example, in Manzanillo, Colima, it is prepared with fish such as sierra, chili, sábalo, robalo, and pargo. Its recipe includes tomato, red onion, cucumber, cilantro, carrot, lime, and Colima salt. Its peculiarity is that the fish is shredded with a fork and finely minced.The nayarita is similar to the colimota: it includes carrot, onion, tomato, cilantro, cucumber, and lime. The secret of its recipe lies in the smallness of the ingredient pieces and in letting them marinate well in lime.In Veracruz, from Alvarado and its surroundings, you can find those made with palm heart (accompanied by a chilpaya chili sauce) to those containing conch. Did you know that in Peru, ceviche has its own day? It is June 28. This date was established in 2008, thanks to a resolution from the Ministry of Production (Produce), with a precedent in 2004, when it was declared a Cultural Heritage of the Nation by the National Institute of Culture (INC).Rodrigo suggests never using frozen fish for ceviches, but always fresh and local, avoiding the consumption of imported tilapia or basa, and respecting fishing bans.Alma advises that when making ceviche, the fish or shrimp should first be put in a bit of ice with salt and placed in the refrigerator for half an hour to an hour, as this improves their consistency.Cover photo: Fernando Gómez Carbajal | Photos in the text: Mariana Castillo