Flours and Doughs, Everything You Need to Know

The kitchen is an ocean of possibilities, especially when we talk about baking and pastry, or even more specifically, flours. I remember that the teachers at the cooking school sometimes told me to knead little, for example, in the case of cookie dough, and at other times, that I should work the dough until it's smooth and elastic. Obviously, I was confused. The topic is the physics and chemistry that are awakened with flours. That blessed ingredient whose origin dates back to 6000 BC has been present in all cultures and is pure gold in the right hands and recipes. And it can be made from countless cereals, which generally have good percentages of starches or carbohydrates. Have you thought about the uses of flour? It is clay for countless breads, rolls, sweet and savory cakes, cookies, and all kinds of pastries. However, its function transcends the baking tray. On the stovetop, it is used for breading, to thicken liquids – for example, in a roux where one part of flour is used for one part of butter. It is used to give structure, to bind some sauces like béchamel or hollandaise, and to make pasta or snacks if it comes from corn.Depending on the seed from which it is made, flours have important qualities such as gluten: a protein found in wheat, barley, and rye. “With flours, there are no limits. The limit is the gluten you need,” says chef Mariano Welner, an expert in Italian-Argentinian cuisine. In the case of wheat flour, the amount of proteins it contains also plays a role. Weak flour or normal flour refers to that which has a lower amount of gluten, so it needs to rest longer to rise. In contrast, strong flours undergo this process in a shorter time since the yeast has more gluten to absorb.  Another basic aspect of flour, especially in baking and pastry, is moisture. Depending on the preparation, the liquid in a dough can vary between 40 and 90 percent – the latter, by the way, are quite difficult to handle, but the effort is worth it for the porous and airy texture they achieve. Here’s a little rule: more water, more lightness in the bread. After kneading is finished, you must let the dough rest. What you will achieve in that time is for the gluten proteins to absorb the water or milk and for the air bubbles caused by the kneading to multiply.Types of floursWheat flour. The most classic of flours has a higher gluten content than the others, achieving ideal textures for breads. “It gives structure to cakes, pie crusts, and other pastry delights; it perfectly coats breaded foods, serves as a thickener for liquid preparations, and is used to prepare a wide variety of pastas, cakes, and breads,” says Mayte Rueda, a chef at kiwilimón. Corn flour. This flour comes from one of the most representative ingredients of America. One of its characteristics is its ability to absorb moisture very well and, of course, to impart a specific flavor to preparations. Use it in savory recipes like arepas, gorditas, meat pie, or in sweet recipes like corn bread or a pound cake.Rye flour. It is ideal for creating sourdough when combined with wheat flour. With it, you will achieve a beautiful crust on rustic breads or muffins. Chef Yamilette González, coordinator of chefs at kiwilimón, recommends using a little more liquid to achieve a final texture that is more porous.Barley flour. Barley, not just in beers. This flour is used to create savory breads and the famous poolish – vital preferments for some breads. Its gift is to help the natural microorganisms in the flour activate when accompanied by wheat flour. Gluten-free flours: Ran out of flour in the pantry? Make oat flour by simply blending or processing it. Oat flour does not produce gluten but contains soluble fiber that activates upon contact with moisture. Another favorite among chefs is chickpea flour: “It's cheap, nutritious, you can make it at home, and it will give you a neutral flavor. If you need to achieve a specific texture, it can be combined with other ingredients like oats or chia,” says Mayte Rueda. Mariano Welner uses cassava flour, widely used in South America, which can be used to prepare sweet and savory recipes. Alexandra Romero, a chef at kiwilimón, prefers almond flour, as it does not absorb much moisture and does not impart too much flavor to the dish. She recommends using rice flour in bread dough, just as they do in some Eastern cuisines.Tips for using flour. Chef Yamilette González recommends using the right wheat flour for each preparation. It is important to pay attention to the degree of refinement, the amount of gluten it contains (the strength of the flour), the quality, the packaging date, and many characteristics that come from the cultivation and influence the final quality.Only work dough longer when you need to awaken the gluten. You will know when you have a stronger and more elastic dough.Chef Welner recommends following the recipes meticulously: from the liquids, the fats, and the processes where sifting cannot be overlooked.If the texture you seek is not crunchy but fluffy and airy, do not over-knead because you will lose air and end up with a flat, dense dough.Alexandra recommends not to overdo the use of flour in recipes. Remember that in the world of pastry “a little is not much,” so the dough can dry out, and in the case of bread, it may not rise and become dense.