Meet Celia Florián, the award-winning Oaxacan chef in Europe

That night, in France, Celia Florián put Mexico on everyone's lips. The prestigious La list, in its The World’s Best Restaurant Selection edition that selects and rates culinary experiences around the world, awarded her restaurant Las quince letras the 2021 Artisan & Authenticity Award Winner. The La list award was not the only recognition Celia received in the last fifteen days. Along with chef Rosario Cruz, in Asturias, Spain, the Oaxacan chef received the Guardianas de la Tradición award for safeguarding the knowledge of her region within the activities of FéminAs 2021, I International Congress of Gastronomy, Women and Rural Environment.A lot is said about this chef in culinary circles, but outside Oaxaca, only a handful of diners know her. It is time to bring this woman into the conversation who, in addition to being a businesswoman, chef, and mother, has presided over the Association of Traditional Cooks of Oaxaca since 2015. A few days ago, I had the opportunity to interview her exclusively for kiwilimón, and this is what she told me. What does it mean to be a traditional cook recognized in Europe?This is a recognition that reflects the work of the great team we do together. It reflects the commitment we have to showcase the authentic flavors of Oaxaca through our dishes. With this, we are not only promoting our destination but also Mexico. How did this dream that has transcended all types of borders begin?It has been 29 years since we opened Las Quince Letras, and I remember those were full days of work. There was no rest. We used to close at 8 but opened at 7 A.M. However, it was a dream when customers told us it was delicious. We had a lot of local clientele from the beginning, but also tourists because we are in the center. In trying to do things better, I started doing research. This way, I could serve dishes that were not only from the region I correspond to – I am from the Central Valleys region. I started going to communities to learn about other dishes, and since then, it has been a great commitment to showcase the greatness of Oaxaca and its cooks.What led you to preside over the Association of Traditional Cooks of Oaxaca?I told myself it was important for more women to move forward through cooking. The kitchen allows for that and much more. I realized that there were many women who were not being visible, and I started taking them to events that I was invited to outside of Oaxaca. They also became promoters. Many of them are still delighted with the project; others have opened their traditional restaurants, and others work providing catering services, bringing their traditional cuisine to private events. They have empowered themselves, and they have become known. Now they are speakers on traditional cooking at universities and events. What does your work with them consist of?It has been very nice to support them when we travel, assist them in the events we have in Oaxaca, advise them on how to travel, and how to present themselves for the first time at meetings. I always tell them it is important to use their clay utensils, that their dishes are native, that they don’t use too much fat, that they showcase the authenticity of our cuisine and our great culture, and that they wear their traditional clothing. I have sought to work with government agencies to support them with resources, hygienic food handling, and cultural matters. I ask them to talk about our cuisine, and that is why I invite them to learn more: so that when people ask them, they are well-informed. I try to support them in terms of gender-based violence. That they identify if they are being abused and try to avoid such violence within their families.For you, as a spokesperson, what makes Oaxacan cuisine unique? The flavors it has. For example, when you already know other cuisines of the world, you realize that our flavors are special, native. I could say it is due to the culture and biodiversity of Oaxaca. We are the state with the highest number of wild agaves, the corn whose origin, according to the latest research, came from the cave of Guila Naquitz. Also, the number of quelites; we have the highest number of endemic chiles. We have excellent cuisine, but we also have an excellent drink, which is mezcal. There are the moles from each region, each community, each town. I enjoy them all because each house has its own flavor, each family, and each community. We must know how to enjoy and value the work of people because it is not easy to do; it has complexities and many techniques. Talking about moles in Oaxaca is an infinite variety.Could you share one of the traditional recipes you serve at Las Quince Letras?For a green chileatole for five portions, you need 3 ears of corn, 2 leaves of hierba santa, 1 bunch of cilantro, 1 bunch of epazote, 1 jalapeño or serrano pepper, 1 wedge of onion, ½ clove of garlic, and the tip of a spoon of butter, although if we prefer, we can make it without it. Start by cutting 1 ear of corn into pieces; the other 2 are to be shelled. Divide them in half and set aside. In a pot, fry the butter and add only half of 1 shelled ear of corn. Sauté. Add water and the corn pieces. In another bowl, blend together: the herbs, the chili (if when cutting it, it is very spicy, remove the seeds; if it is not so spicy, leave just a little bit), the onion, the garlic, and the other half of the kernels you reserved, to thicken. When it comes to a boil in your pot, add all the green mixture you blended. Season with salt and bring it back to a boil. Remove from heat and serve with cubes of dry or fresh cheese. Garnish with epazote.