The recognition that Mexican rice was missing

It is neither the appetizer nor the grand finale. Right in the middle of the meal comes the indispensable step of the traditional meals: a plate of red rice topped with an egg or some fried plantains. Its simplicity may go unnoticed, but its preparation is synonymous with culinary skill. Rice is history, resilience, abundance. Confucius saw it as a cornerstone, a paraphrase of completeness: A kitchen without rice is like a beautiful woman missing an eye, he quoted. Almost always, other carbohydrates – corn or wheat – are worshipped, but rice is the partner of national stews. What other carbohydrate could accompany the king of the table, mole, so dignifiedly? What other dessert needs nothing more than cinnamon, sugar, and milk to warm the heart? What makes any piece of meat the most profitable dish?An oval rice, perfectly separated, fluffy, and firm enough is the desired aspiration of both novices and professionals. Grandmothers have revealed their tricks to us – frying it, rinsing it, soaking it – but perhaps the most important and least talked about is related to the quality of the grain. What arrived in Mexico during the Conquest from overseas soon made this land its own home. It did so conspicuously in Morelos. Since 1836, this rice has claimed the demonym of that state, positioning itself as the best in the Republic. Bringing it to attention is not by chance. A few days ago, I was present in Acapulco at the award ceremony of the Mexico Gastronomic Guide of Culinaria Mexicana to the best 250 restaurants and at the third edition of Gastronomic Trades. During the talks and presentations, the renowned chef and researcher Ricardo Muñoz Zurita expressed his deep admiration and respect for Morelos rice, which was recognized a few years ago as a Denomination of Origin by the Ministry of Agriculture and which, as he recounted, did not yet have the necessary certification to be recognized by international organizations. With the enthusiasm that characterizes him, Ricardo urged participants to join his cause: to raise the $200,000 pesos needed for the mission.Where does the magic of Morelos Rice come from?The global cult that this ingredient awakens comes from its adaptability. After arriving in Mexican territory, rice thrived in Morelos thanks to its soils, altitude, and rainfall. It was on this land where it acquired unique characteristics: “The rice produced in Morelos is thick and long. One characteristic is that in the center, it has what we call a white belly, which is the starch. What makes this type of rice cook is that it absorbs water very well, making it fluffy,” assures Eduardo Morales, owner and director of the Rice Mill of Puente de Ixtla, Morelos.And of course, a noble title like the Denomination of Origin does not fall from the sky. Morelos rice managed to acquire the brand because the variety is only found in this geographic region of the country, specifically in twenty-two municipalities of that state.In an interview with Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, the founder of the Azul restaurants spoke to me about the special nature of the grain. Its magic and quality lie in the artisanal treatment it receives at every stage of the process. Human hands are intimately involved in the various moments of production: in the cultivation over immense water-covered prairies, in the one-by-one transplanting, in the cutting which can be done with or without a boat, and in the sun drying on large slabs. At the end of the process, Puente de Ixtla is where most of the grain arrives to be dried and hulled.The distinction is not unwarranted. In addition to safeguarding the rice that, according to Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, was awarded as the best rice in the world at the World Fair of 1900, this certification will primarily benefit small producers: “The growers of this rice, not having the denomination of origin, cannot sell the rice at the price they should. About 15,000 hectares of rice cultivation have been abandoned, as there has been a terrible decline in the farmland that is now being used to grow something else. There is a danger of using them for other products and then causing the disappearance of such an important rice,” he assures.For Eduardo Morales, in addition to establishing fairer prices, the certification would bring order to marketing. The issue is that rice from the state of Morelos is sold in bulk, and in some supply centers and markets, it is mixed with lower-quality grains to obtain more profit. Upon receiving the distinction, there would also be an obligation to comply with a series of regulations aimed at proving the purity of the rice, its native origin, the preservation of the tradition in its cultivation, and the organoleptic examination that verifies its quality. A win-win for farmers, consumers, and our culinary culture.Rice in Mexican cuisineAlthough other rices also work, Morelos rice fits perfectly with our dishes. “In terms of Mexican cuisine, it does not break or clump like other rices. That does not mean that the others are not good; what happens is that they have ideal characteristics for other types of food,” says Chef Ricardo. And it did not have to be endemic for rice to be as Mexican as the flag. A testament to this is the red rice with its bits of carrot, the white rice with its peas, and the green rice, with the flavors of poblano chili. Ricardo Muñoz Zurita also mentions other essential dishes like rice a la tumbada, rice with chicken or seafood. He even talks to me about a rice in the south of the country dyed with bean broth that turns it black.Morelos rice is a national pride. Its care and consumption represent culture, economy, and even social justice. Perhaps that is why, a few days ago in Acapulco, chefs from all over Mexico and gastronomic media joined the proposal initiated by Muñoz Zurita because it promises to give value to what the hands of farmers produce and to one of the many blessings that grow under the earth of the Fifth Sun.