Where does the best Mexican coffee come from?
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Where does the best Mexican coffee come from?

By Shadia Asencio - 2020-07-10T10:52:06Z
The time zone and geographical coordinates may change, and yet, mornings around the world smell like coffee: from Ethiopia, Guatemala, Colombia, Brazil, or Mexico; lands whose components, elevations, and temperatures are perfect for cultivating green gold. But of course, not all coffees are that sometimes fruity, sometimes earthy pleasure that awakens the senses just as much as the body. If the cup is made in Mexico, there are two possibilities: it is either instant –the country is one of the largest consumers of so-called “instant” coffee– or it is bean coffee –coffee sourced from fair trade and microclimates that mostly offer unparalleled quality–. The first thing to know is that the best cup of Mexican coffee is not instant, but bean. Which state does it come from in particular? Here, the answer gets interesting. The national coffee tradition was imported to Veracruz as soon as it was discovered that coffee had stimulating properties for the body. Since the 18th century, coffee farms proliferated in the mountains and hills of that state, as well as in Oaxaca, Chiapas, Puebla, Nayarit, and ten other producing entities. Hence, the best coffee in Mexico comes from several origins and not just one. The important thing is to know what each geography offers and the “know-how” of each producer (this term is used to talk about the techniques, knowledge, and experience surrounding the production of something as complex as coffee). Jesús Salazar, the Coffeeologist –a doctor and philosopher who has put Chiapas coffee in the global spotlight– tells me that a large part of the 500,000 national coffee growers belong to indigenous ethnic groups. For him, this is an additional value that Mexican coffee offers compared to the competition. Knowledge and culture in every cup! In Chiapas, one of the origins of the best coffee in Mexico, classic varieties such as bourbon, typica, caturra, and even marago are grown in intercropped lands. And where do you think the aromas and flavors of those other products that grow in the soil end up? You guessed it. All of that gives unique characteristics to that morning cup of coffee. Tenejapa, Jaltenango, Monte Cristo are some of the Chiapan towns where high-quality coffee is produced. However, for the Coffeeologist, there is no single area that should carry the title of The Best. For him, every cup holds the mountains, flora and fauna, gastronomy, history, and culture. He says that the intangible adds “added value” to the perfect cup of coffee.Another state where the best coffee in Mexico is produced is Veracruz. In its territory, there exists a successful combination of soils, humidity, sun, and shade that creates the perfect scenario for coffee cherries to thrive. It is no coincidence that the highest number of medals from the Mexico Excellence Cup competition has remained in the state. Towns like Zongolica, Coatepec, and Huatusco are under the gaze of major global coffee competitions, as they are doing things right from the field. There are projects like those of Rodrigo Quirós and Carlos Juárez from Ímpetus Café, who fight daily to ensure that, in addition to good production, the coffee goes through a quality roasting process and that its preparation at the bar is optimal. If you ask me, the most impressive cups I have tried in Mexico come from the Huatusco area in Veracruz. I tasted it at Ímpetus Café in the port, alongside freshly baked cookies. In Mexico City, Chiquitito Café roasts and brews beans from Boca del Monte, Veracruz, and from Pluma Hidalgo, Oaxaca. Their coffee is exceptional. At Cucurucho, another of my personal favorites, there is coffee from small producers called La Resistencia, which comes from Nayarit: a crazy explosion of citrus notes. There is only one way to choose the best coffee: experimenting with the beans you have on hand. Do it in American coffee, grinding the beans at the moment, or however you like. Yes, even in cake it is also acceptable. Where does your favorite coffee come from?