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As strange as it may seem, the Day of the Dead is one of the most joyful and colorful celebrations held in Mexico, as homes, public squares, shops, museums, and even schools are adorned with lots of papel picado of all colors, the orange of the cempasúchil flowers, and colorful sugar skulls and alfeñique figures.  

These last ones are those you can find in markets, which are made by artisans from various regions of the country. Being such an important element in the Day of the Dead altar, at Kiwilimon we set out to research the origin of alfeñique, what it is made of, and its meaning.  

You can also read: Why do we leave food for the dead?

What is alfeñique? 
Although we think that alfeñique is Mexican, this type of candy actually has Arabic origins and was known as al-Fanid. It was prepared with almond oil, honey, sugar, and water and was used to treat coughs. Once the ingredients were cooked, the dough became viscous and was shaped into alfeñique candies. 

As you well know, the Arabs conquered the Iberian Peninsula, so alfeñique first arrived in Spain and was then brought to Mexico by colonizers. Today, there are many types of alfeñiques, which can be made with powdered sugar, almonds, pumpkin seeds, and more, but those we buy for the Day of the Dead altar are usually made of powdered sugar and egg.  

In addition to sugar skulls, crosses, coffins, and crowns, we can also find alfeñiques in the shape of fruits, so alfeñique is an art that goes beyond the Day of the Dead. For its part, the Agricultural and Fisheries Information Service explains that each state makes these sweets differently, “in Puebla, the main ingredients are almond, peanut, and pumpkin seed, while in Oaxaca, they are made with crystallized sugar and honey.” 

However, entities like the State of Mexico, Guanajuato, and Morelos still prepare the original recipe, but it is worth mentioning that it is in Toluca where the incredible “Feria del Alfeñique” is held, a great activity to celebrate the Day of the Dead with family! But that’s not all, as you can also visit the Alfeñique Museum, located at Independencia Ote. 502, Toluca, State of Mexico. 

You can also read: What does the bread of the dead mean? 

Why are alfeñique figures placed on the Day of the Dead altar? 
To understand and appreciate such a peculiar celebration as the Day of the Dead, it is essential to understand that Mexican society preserves both Indigenous and Spanish traditions, so the Day of the Dead represents the duality of life and death, but also the syncretism of two cultures.  

For the ancient Mexicas, there was no heaven and hell, but Mictlán, the underworld where people continued their lives, which is why they were buried with offerings such as food, utensils, and other belongings. Death was not something negative and was part of their everyday life, just like human sacrifices. Therefore, we can speculate that the alfeñique skulls, made of sugar, amaranth, or chocolate, are a way to remember our Indigenous roots, as they somewhat resemble the tzompantli, an offering consisting of skulls arranged in rows, which aimed to honor the gods.  

With the arrival of Spanish colonizers, who practiced Catholicism, the Mexica worldview and their practices were deemed aberrant, so upon subjugating the natives, they forced them to adopt their religion and thus eliminate all these practices and sacrifices. The Secretariat of Agriculture and Rural Development explains that “with the arrival of the Spaniards, Mexicans continued to place their altars, but without real skulls, as they acquired the technique of alfeñique that uses sugar, hot water, and lemon to create a moldable dough that allows for different figures, including the sweet skulls.” 

In more recent years, it has been said that Mexicans mock death and that is why we celebrate the Day of the Dead. An example of this is the famous Catrina, created by José Guadalupe Posada, which was a mockery of people of Indigenous descent, but who preferred to ignore their true roots and pretend to be Europeans. 

Later, the Catrina became the face of the Day of the Dead celebration and always reminds us that Mexicans fear death, but we also laugh at it with delicious alfeñique figures and sugar and chocolate skulls.  

So now that you know the origin of alfeñique and its meaning in the Day of the Dead offering, these fun sugar figures must be among your cempasúchil flowers, copal, water, salt, bread of the dead, papel picado, and your loved ones' favorite dishes and drinks.  

You can also read: 10 elements that must not be missing from your Day of the Dead altar