Tlaxcala is located in a strategic place, right in the center of the Mexican megalopolis. Its geolocation, close to the capital and other states, has historically brought it blessings and a series of twists to its destiny that resulted in the enrichment of culture and a myriad of culinary delights that do not go unnoticed.

The origin of Tlaxcalteca cuisine dates back more than seven hundred years, with the settlement of the first groups that formed this great civilization. “Being close to the neo-volcanic axis, Tlaxcala receives a lot of water from the melting snow that then goes underground, enriching the land,” comments Irad Santacruz, a professor of cuisine in his region at the Culinary Art School. Hence, the gastronomy emerges from unbeatable ingredients where the tortilla reigns. No wonder, Tlaxcala means place of tortillas.

For Francisco Molina, one of the most emblematic cooks of the state, whose restaurant Evoka is a must-stop during a visit, the primary ingredients of the region are corn and maguey. The latter is the ingredient he takes the most pride in: “Everything is used from it. I try to incorporate the philosophy of maguey in my restaurant.” From agave, honey water and agave honey are extracted with their herbaceous flavors; when fermented, it produces pulque; its leaves are used for dishes like barbacoa; even the maguey worm is used to create complex dishes.

The milpas grow across the plains and offer a handful of ingredients that end up in a good soup. Additionally, there is the so-called metepantle, a concept from pre-Hispanic agriculture where the ecosystem is created around the maguey. “Each tree gives certain characteristics and nutrients to the soil, providing a kind of balance to the land. For me, this is basically the origin of Tlaxcalteca cuisine,” says Chef Francisco.

It is no secret that before the arrival of the Spaniards, the Tlaxcalans were subjected to the Aztecs. As a punishment for wanting to free themselves from paying taxes to the inhabitants of the region, they were prohibited from buying salt and other supplies. Hence, regional dishes use few ingredients, but combined with creativity and techniques, a good variety has been made possible.
mole de ladrillo, mole prieto, and atole agrio. “Mole prieto is a more ceremonial mole, a mole that is more liquid than thick and is made with pork. The mole de ladrillo is also a ceremonial mole of Otomi origin.” Meanwhile, atole agrio is made from varieties of red corn and is served with a bean or ayocote at the bottom.

The mole that you can find almost everywhere in the state is the mole de fiesta, but of course, with certain seasonings that change in each community. Along with the State of Mexico and Hidalgo, it shares the tradition of the best barbacoa in the country and the technique of mixiote. Among soups are tlatlapas, a thick soup made with yellow beans, chileatole green, and sopa de milpa common in season. The favorite ingredient of the rainy season is the edible mushroom, which serves as a plant protein in typical dishes and moles. But none of this would come together without the king of ancient beverages: pulque. Pulque is culture, it is an ingredient in copious dishes, it is the favorite of Quetzalcóatl and that for which he had to redeem himself in exile.

On the sweet side, Tlaxcala is a paradise waiting to be discovered. “There are the traditional muéganos from Humantla, Santa Ana, Santa Cruz, and the capital”; but there are also tlaxcales –little cakes made with corn dough and sugar–, pepita sweets, guava preserves, sweet potato preserves, or any seasonal fruit. Don’t miss the burritos –and forget the large wrap made with flour tortilla–. In Tlaxcala, they are made from corn just about to pop and are covered with aguamiel, piloncillo, or sugar. Other traditional desserts are chacualole, a dessert made from pumpkin or other fruits and flavored with cinnamon, orange peel, and clove, or buñuelos de rodilla and de viento. Of course, during patron saint festivals, one must be led by the aroma of panes de feria.

If street food is to be discussed, Chef Francisco recommends the tortas de la 2 de abril. “These are tortas that come with pork milanesa, chalupa, huitlacoche or cheese quesadilla, everything is fried. It comes with its salad, tomato, and bread.” If you prefer the tortilla over the bolillo, you should stop at a corner for tacos de canasta, supposedly originating from the region.

Irad recommends attending the eco-friendly producer market that takes place on Fridays in San Nicolás park, the Saturday market in Tlaxcala, and the Wednesday market in La Loma: “There you not only find the product and the people, but you will surely eat deliciously at one of its many stalls.” And indeed, taking a stroll through this small state is to taste well-preserved traditions in a context of estates, living legends, and crossroads.