In the era of disposability, permanence is a miracle. Therefore, the fact that the restaurant Nicos is celebrating its 65th anniversary and thriving should be celebrated. You know, the ellipses of time, as in the movies, do not exist. This restaurant in Azcapotzalco has had to face, without shortcuts, the financial and social crises of a country, the fall of the peso, the overthrow of a political party, wars in distant borders, pandemics, and trends that lead diners from one neighborhood to another. But this place, despite not being in any of the city's obvious coordinates – where it is also easy to get lost in the abundant offerings – has found its place on the global culinary map. 

The restaurant, opened in 1957, does not start its journey with a pretentious French menu. Its history does not recount the path of a chef converted to the creed of the local. The gastronomic topic of Nicos has always been traditional family cooking showcased first by Raymundo Vázquez and Elena Lugo, his wife. Upon the death of his father, Gerardo Vázquez Lugo abandoned architecture and devoted himself body and soul to the family legacy.

Gerardo tells me that there is no secret to permanence. Instead, one must walk; walk and stumble, turn, and try something new, win and lose. One must be aware to detect the subtle changes in the air and be open to making decisions. For him, probably one that changed his course was being a pupil of Alicia Gironella and later joining the Slow Food movement, of which the renowned chef from Tajín, along with her husband Giorgio D’Angeli, were representatives.

Even without that affiliation, the philosophy of the movement still permeates the macro and fine-cut decisions of the restaurant. The most important thing is the product: its quality, seasonality, and traceability. “It is vital to know the origin and its producer, to shorten the production chain. And if it does not have the social aspect, it is useless,” Gerardo comments. Trade must be fair and sustainable for both those who work the land and the land itself. That, yes. The chef of restaurant Nicos not only invests vital energy in searching for the perfect ingredient, but also in researching those recipes lost in the annals of Mexican culinary history. 

The seasons of cold, rain, and heat bring different ingredients to the table; thus, the menu at Nicos evolves as if it were alive. If a new vein opens up in Gerardo's research – perhaps discovering a new ingredient or a new region in that season – it will be reflected in the menu. It is as if time, destiny, and causality play an important role in creating the sapid memory of the diner who will taste one menu and not another. 

When Gerardo speaks of research, he means it seriously. It is not that his study begins and ends on the page of an old book. The chef immerses himself in various regions, compares knowledge and flavors, and recognizes differences and similarities firsthand. “Let’s suppose that in a mountainous region of Veracruz we have two very close towns, but one of them is on the Puebla side. In the end, it is still the same region. That is why we must defend those small and subtle differences that at the same time make us more alike,” he asserts while telling me about his work in the area of research. 

The declaration of traditional Mexican cuisine as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity owes much to his work and that of other scholars, such as Dr. Gloria López Morales. This is probably one of the most gratifying victories that have come through restaurant Nicos. It is not the only one. Another important achievement was its inclusion in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants or the lifetime achievement award in 2018, granted by the same list. 

From the walls of Nicos hang all kinds of awards, such as the Guide to Mexican Culinary Restaurants, the MB distinction from Marco Beteta, etc. But another that makes the team proud is the Wine Spectator award, an important American publication specialized in wines that recognized the restaurant's wine list for its high quality. “It was the first time that a mid-level neighborhood restaurant, serving Mexican cuisine that was not luxurious, was recognized with 100% Mexican wines, that is, without Petrus, without Opus One, without Vega Sicilia,” confirms the chef. 

As beauty does not take away from bravery, the environment occupies several lines in the philosophy of Nicos. Gerardo tells me that, imitating Mexican tradition, his kitchen uses every part of the ingredient to achieve almost Zero Waste. In addition to waste separation, a detailed documentation of where glass, cardboard, and every waste that leaves his establishment goes has been implemented since the pandemic. In this way, traceability forms a journey that begins in the field, passes through the kitchen, and reaches recycling areas, completing a virtuous circle of good practices and love for culture, cuisine, and the environment.

This city and this country appreciate the existence of its cream soup, its moles and adobos that show us a different profile each time, the chile en nogada, the mojo isleño, the conchas, and the Azcapotzalco eggs. There is always a desire to go eat at Nicos. It is always tempting to eat well and feel part of a cultural and social movement that some chefs like Gerardo make possible from the table, one dish at a time.